07 June 2012
Right after the last post, on Tuesday the 5th, the swell started coming into our anchorage and making it a bit rolly. As strong winds were forecast for Wednesday night and Thursday morning, we decided to head somewhere not as exposed to swell.
The weather coming through is the same system that is now over the UK, but we were on the edge of it. Last night, Wednesday, we had lots of wind and rain but no swell at all. Great anchorage in our books.
So we set off at about 2 o'clock on Tuesday and motor sailed through a very lumpy sea. Once we'd rounded Punta Carreiero we even got a bit of a sail in.
The Ensenadade de Muros. Ensenadade is inlet or maybe bay in Spanish.
There is a brand spanking new marina that is almost empty at the moment.
In front of the pontoons, which the fishing boats are so neatly moored bow or stern to, is a 'wavebreak' that should stop any bad swell coming into the marina.
Swell is a big issue on the Atlantic coast. Storms well out to sea generate waves that arrive as swell which can be really uncomfortable once they make land. And swell travels around corners, though we didn't have any trouble at all last night.
Muros has a lot of charm. We loved the steep windy narrow streets and the mix of old and new. It really is and ancient town.
The Rue of Venus - I do wonder how it got its name and suspect if that lantern was showing a red light, I'd be certain.
As well as banks, Muros has a LOT of churches. This is a tiny one on the waterfront. Unfortunately, parking seems to be at a premium and there are cars everywhere. It was quite difficult to find a street without any.
There is an interesting mix of dilapidated...
...and beautifully kept.
We popped into the Gadis Supermarket - a little less of the 'super' in a town of this size, but it still had a butcher's, deli-type counter and a fishmonger's.
This nice lady is de-finning, scaling and gutting our little 1 Euro 50 cent Maragotas.
You have no idea how difficult it is to decide what sort of fish to get not speaking the language or recognising the types of fish. So we either erred on the side of caution or were a bit cowardly.
I wanted the fish filleted but she, with gestures, suggested chopping it into steaks. Four little pieces went into a Styrofoam tray and into a bag. When I started getting dinner ready back on the boat, I discovered that one of the pieces was the head, with quite a lot of meat on it. I was planning on baking the fish with onions, tomatoes, sliced potatoes, red peppers and courgettes (zuchinni) and stock in the oven. Neither of us was quite up to facing the head so over the side it went. I am quite embarrassed about that but it's still early days and I hope to toughen up.
Tim loved the results and it did taste delicious but the fish was a soft fleshed variety and pretty much turned to mush. But it tasted great and I will try it again with a meatier fish when I know which one is a meatier fish.
This is what I had to contend with to choose my fish.
Faneca and Parrocha (Xouba)
Pescadilla Terciada, Chimno and Lirio
And last but not least, Gallito, a flatfish that I was definitely too cowardly to tackle. If anyone has any idea how to tackle this sort of fish, I'd be very interested to hear.
Salt cod is something that I will have to have another try at. They use it in the Caribbean as well.
There are some terrific shops here. A Ferreria is an ironmonger sort of affair with pretty much anything you could want for the home ranging from power tools to things for the kitchen to fishing rods - just everything. We got a tank of camping gas for 14 Euro 50, much cheaper than in the UK. We will be using camping gas the propane we brought from the UK runs out.
This is a small shop come deli. We found it when we were trying to find somewhere that sells fresh milk. Nowhere seems to here, so we got some UHT for Tim. I prefer the powdered milk we've been trying out and it is so convenient.
As well as milk I bought a rather curious looking bun.
It was strangely heavy and I thought there might be some sort of filling inside.
Nope. It was like a dry, bland unleavened bread. Another customer in the shop had bought one so they do eat them. Or use them as doorstops maybe. We both had a nibble and then fed it to the fishes.
I have googled images of Galicia Muros Bread and found nothing like it but the pictures the search returned are wonderful so I've included the link.
Everything shuts from between 2 and 4'oclock in Spain and then reopens until about 8 in the evening.
This is a little tapas bar that I really liked the look of. I hope to tell you more about it later. :)
This is our proposed route for tomorrow.
Muros to Baiona
The winds are coming around to the North West and we should be sailing with the wind behind us. I hope that will make up for our 0700 start tomorrow. I will let you know.
Later!
Yes, we went to the tapas bar.
I already knew that I would have the pulpo or octopus.
alt="Photobucket">
It was absolutely delicious. Soft and tender and flavoured with sweet paprika and olive oil.
Tim ordered the tortilla.
I could never see what the fuss was about until now. This was gently cooked potato and onions mixed with mostly egg yolks and then fried until golden brown and the egg not quite set. How can something so simple be so amazing? It was beautiful and I'm so glad we had it as I now know what I have to aim for next when I make it again.
The next time we're doing tapas I'll keep my fingers crossed that there are navajas or razor clams on the menu. I have wanted to try these for a very long time.
The weather coming through is the same system that is now over the UK, but we were on the edge of it. Last night, Wednesday, we had lots of wind and rain but no swell at all. Great anchorage in our books.
So we set off at about 2 o'clock on Tuesday and motor sailed through a very lumpy sea. Once we'd rounded Punta Carreiero we even got a bit of a sail in.
The Ensenadade de Muros. Ensenadade is inlet or maybe bay in Spanish.
There is a brand spanking new marina that is almost empty at the moment.
In front of the pontoons, which the fishing boats are so neatly moored bow or stern to, is a 'wavebreak' that should stop any bad swell coming into the marina.
Swell is a big issue on the Atlantic coast. Storms well out to sea generate waves that arrive as swell which can be really uncomfortable once they make land. And swell travels around corners, though we didn't have any trouble at all last night.
Muros has a lot of charm. We loved the steep windy narrow streets and the mix of old and new. It really is and ancient town.
The Rue of Venus - I do wonder how it got its name and suspect if that lantern was showing a red light, I'd be certain.
As well as banks, Muros has a LOT of churches. This is a tiny one on the waterfront. Unfortunately, parking seems to be at a premium and there are cars everywhere. It was quite difficult to find a street without any.
There is an interesting mix of dilapidated...
...and beautifully kept.
We popped into the Gadis Supermarket - a little less of the 'super' in a town of this size, but it still had a butcher's, deli-type counter and a fishmonger's.
This nice lady is de-finning, scaling and gutting our little 1 Euro 50 cent Maragotas.
You have no idea how difficult it is to decide what sort of fish to get not speaking the language or recognising the types of fish. So we either erred on the side of caution or were a bit cowardly.
I wanted the fish filleted but she, with gestures, suggested chopping it into steaks. Four little pieces went into a Styrofoam tray and into a bag. When I started getting dinner ready back on the boat, I discovered that one of the pieces was the head, with quite a lot of meat on it. I was planning on baking the fish with onions, tomatoes, sliced potatoes, red peppers and courgettes (zuchinni) and stock in the oven. Neither of us was quite up to facing the head so over the side it went. I am quite embarrassed about that but it's still early days and I hope to toughen up.
Tim loved the results and it did taste delicious but the fish was a soft fleshed variety and pretty much turned to mush. But it tasted great and I will try it again with a meatier fish when I know which one is a meatier fish.
This is what I had to contend with to choose my fish.
Faneca and Parrocha (Xouba)
Pescadilla Terciada, Chimno and Lirio
And last but not least, Gallito, a flatfish that I was definitely too cowardly to tackle. If anyone has any idea how to tackle this sort of fish, I'd be very interested to hear.
Salt cod is something that I will have to have another try at. They use it in the Caribbean as well.
There are some terrific shops here. A Ferreria is an ironmonger sort of affair with pretty much anything you could want for the home ranging from power tools to things for the kitchen to fishing rods - just everything. We got a tank of camping gas for 14 Euro 50, much cheaper than in the UK. We will be using camping gas the propane we brought from the UK runs out.
This is a small shop come deli. We found it when we were trying to find somewhere that sells fresh milk. Nowhere seems to here, so we got some UHT for Tim. I prefer the powdered milk we've been trying out and it is so convenient.
As well as milk I bought a rather curious looking bun.
It was strangely heavy and I thought there might be some sort of filling inside.
Nope. It was like a dry, bland unleavened bread. Another customer in the shop had bought one so they do eat them. Or use them as doorstops maybe. We both had a nibble and then fed it to the fishes.
I have googled images of Galicia Muros Bread and found nothing like it but the pictures the search returned are wonderful so I've included the link.
Everything shuts from between 2 and 4'oclock in Spain and then reopens until about 8 in the evening.
This is a little tapas bar that I really liked the look of. I hope to tell you more about it later. :)
This is our proposed route for tomorrow.
Muros to Baiona
The winds are coming around to the North West and we should be sailing with the wind behind us. I hope that will make up for our 0700 start tomorrow. I will let you know.
Later!
Yes, we went to the tapas bar.
I already knew that I would have the pulpo or octopus.
alt="Photobucket">It was absolutely delicious. Soft and tender and flavoured with sweet paprika and olive oil.
Tim ordered the tortilla.
I could never see what the fuss was about until now. This was gently cooked potato and onions mixed with mostly egg yolks and then fried until golden brown and the egg not quite set. How can something so simple be so amazing? It was beautiful and I'm so glad we had it as I now know what I have to aim for next when I make it again.
The next time we're doing tapas I'll keep my fingers crossed that there are navajas or razor clams on the menu. I have wanted to try these for a very long time.
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